At the beginning of June, the French mountaineer Mathieu Maynadier and Muizzudn of Pakistan were pioneers on a new route on the eastern crest of Spantik (7,027 m), known locally as Golden Peak, in the Karakoram range.
The ascent, which took place from June 2 to 7, was the first large mountain opening in Pakistan directed by a local climber. The new 1,800 m route, called “Zindabad (Long Live)”, is qualified M5 A1 to an 80 ° inclination. It is expected to be one of the most notable increases of this summer in the country.
The duo spent 20 days acclimatizing at the base camp, waiting 10 days of bad weather before establishing higher camps at 5,200 my 5,800m. Despite the risk, they took an opening of the weather, supporting fresh snow and unstable slabs for five days. Only meters from the summit, they aborted due to a dangerous wind slab, but celebrated the end of the route as a symbol of national pride.
His descent took 36 hours through the normal route, with a final vivouac at 5,800 m. For Muizz, this achievement is the first phase of a broader objective: becoming the first mountain guide certified by UIAGM of Pakistan.
Muizz plans to start his training in France this summer. If it succeeds, it will be certified by 2029 and aims to help revive national guidance programs and train schools in Pakistan.
Spantik has a respected history of technical increases, in particular the French ascent -Pozozo of 2000 to its “Pilar de Oro” of the north face. Maynadier, already a defender of Pakistani mountaineering, has achieved several first ascents and ski declines in the region.
