At the Yondu Culinary Studio in Lower Manhattan, chef Jaume Biarnés demonstrates how to get rich, savory flavor from a handful of vegetables.
He believes the centuries-old Korean fermentation technique holds part of the answer to one of the most pressing questions of our time: how to feed a growing global population without depleting the planet.
“Korea has the highest vegetable consumption in the world and that is because they use fermentation to make vegetables taste delicious,” he says. “If we want people to eat more vegetables and in a more sustainable way, it has to be through pleasure and fun.”
Go green without breaking the bank
For Biarnés, who worked at the legendary El Bulli in Spain (voted five times best restaurant in the world), sustainability is not a trend, but a fundamental part of being a chef and running a kitchen.
In an industry where costs are high and margins tight, any “green” initiative must make economic sense. “Sustainability is being able to secure resources for the future to be able to continue functioning,” explains Biarnés. “On a restaurant level, this means being economically sustainable. On a global level, as a species, it means the same thing.”
However, he insists that restaurants that weren’t built with sustainability in mind can do so if they take it one step at a time.
Controlling food waste, he points out, is already integrated into good kitchen management. The most difficult challenge lies in sourcing local products: busy chefs often lack the time to seek out regional suppliers, and dominant food distribution networks do not prioritize proximity.
“That’s what we have to fix to make it easier for chefs to access local products and at a more competitive price.”
Politics also plays a role. He points to Europe, where many single-use items are banned or restricted, contrasting the situation with the United States, where disposable plates and cups remain ubiquitous. “Policymakers have to help companies stop using disposable materials,” he emphasizes.
The modern relevance of an ancient technique
At Yondu Culinary Studio, where Mr. Biarnés serves as director, the focus is on fermenting Korean vegetables, a practice that predates refrigeration but remains surprisingly relevant in an era of climate-conscious cooking.
“Fermentation is a traditional technique for preserving products,” he explains. “Pickles, sauerkraut, cheese, beer… we have fermentation all over the world. It has been used as a method of preserving food and as a technique for increasing flavor.”
A market in Boulder, Colorado, United States.
By extending shelf life, fermentation reduces waste. By intensifying flavor, it makes plant-rich diets more appealing, a double benefit in a world where the shift toward vegetables is one of the most effective dietary changes individuals can make for the planet.
love and share
Originally from Catalonia and now championing Korean culinary traditions in New York, Mr. Biarnés embodies the intercultural flow that defines contemporary gastronomy.
“We live in a time when ideas travel very quickly, sometimes faster than ingredients,” he observes. “You’ll most likely see a recipe on TikTok or Instagram before you can find the ingredients.”
“A kitchen and a table are the way to understand each other,” he says. “There is no better way to transmit your own culture and love for your country than to share your dishes, your ingredients with other people.”
For those who want to apply these principles in their own kitchens, Mr. Biarnés offers a simple guide, echoing American author Michael Pollan: “Eat food, not in excess, and mainly vegetables.”
Practical tips for your kitchen:
- Buy ingredients, not processed foods. Fresh ingredients tend to be more local, tastier, and have a lower carbon footprint.
- Check the origin. If a product traveled from the other side of the world, it is probably neither sustainable nor at its peak flavor.
- Embrace seasonality. “Who wants to eat peaches in winter? They have no flavor,” he says. Visiting a local farmers market reveals what’s ripe and ready.
- Plan to avoid waste. Know what you’ll be cooking before you shop, buy only what you need for the next few days, and use your freezer to prepare meals.
Above all, Biarnés urges, to enjoy the process. “The most important thing is the pleasure factor,” he says. “Vegetables are good because they give you pleasure. The vitamins and fiber come later.”
Sustainable Gastronomy Day It is celebrated on June 18 of each year to recognize gastronomy as a cultural expression related to the natural and cultural diversity of the world.
